Paris: working holiday

We were in Paris for a working holiday - mainly for me to work on a chapter of my thesis (which I completed - yay), and for Steve to make some contacts for a new project he is working on.  We did get to do some fun touristy things for breaks, which was great, but mostly it was work.

Paris was FREEZING cold when we were there - it actually snowed on us when we were out one day.  We walked a LOT, and that warmed us up (most of the time) and it was lovely to see all the different neighbourhoods.

We climbed the Arc de Triumph to watch the "sunset" - not much of a sunset, but it was beautiful to watch the lights come on.  

CNES is the French Space Agency

Steve and I had an enjoyable morning there talking about the future of space ethics, in particular military space ethics.

There were a lot of buskers around which was fun - this was a piano acordion on the train.  I was surprised to see a lot more homeless people this time - it seems that the economic crisis has hit some people very hard here.

We visited the Musee de Orsay one afternoon and loved getting the opportunity to watch them restoring one of the larger paintings - it was absolutely fascinating to watch.  It seems to be very slow meticulous work.  We also visited the Orangerie Museum, and LOVED just sitting and admiring Monet's work :-)

When I was in Athens I started this scarf (with Addi, who also started a circular scarf).  It rolled quite a bit, so I turned it in to a tubular circular scarf - it kept me nice and warm and toasty in freezing Paris.

This Bakery had the most AMAZING bread - the line went around the block just to get in the store, but it was worth the wait. I'm not supposed to be eating grains (or sugar), so "cough", don't tell my doctor - the diet will start properly when I get to the UK.

The Strada Cafe served great coffee, plus fed us and kept us with free wifi - for when we got cabin fever from working in the apartment :-)

Editing is hard no matter where you do it.

YES - a little happy dance for finishing the chapter

We had a lot of problems with the apartment we were staying in, and in fact a lot of problems with the Airbnb host.  This is me after I have walked on this grate, and it has flipped (it wasn't secured) and I've fallen into the hole with disgusting (hopefully only dish washing) water in it.  My foot and ankle hurt for several days after this.  We've had a friend have problems with Airbnb, and a family member - after this experience I don't think we would rent through them again - there just isn't someone to help if there is a problem - a reputable real estate agent or online holiday rental agency is much more reliable.  If you are thinking about staying with Airbnb, just be very wary - this website gives you ideas of what to look out for - airbnbhell.com 

Florence!!!

We LOVED Florence - in Paris it was freezing cold and it felt like everyone was hibernating - but in Florence people were out and about (strolling in the centre of town on the saturday night is a big deal) - we decided that Italians don't know how to hibernate :-)  Here are some of our highlights....

Sunset on the Arno River

Michelangelo's statue of David in the Accademia Museum

Nikki had a half an hour of pure bliss sketching David's hands (she was initially not keen to sketch in public, but soon got completely caught up in the drawing and largely didn't notice anyone else in the room)

Botticelli's Birth of Venus in the Uffizi Museum

They had several tactile representations of painting for people who are vision impaired - we were very impressed.

The view over Florence

A new Mona Lisa to add to my collection :-)

Enjoying the sun setting over the Arno

Steve really loved being able to stand next to a Stradivarius violin (in the Musical Instrument Musuem which is a part of the Accademia Museum)

Apparently travelling minstrels are a problem in the Uffizi gallery, so you aren't allowed to take your violin in to the exhibition areas.

This busker had a college group join in - it was heaps of fun to sing along with them to Wonder Wall

A really fun cooking class - here Steve is making Chocolate Souffle with Guy, Kevin Rudd's Canadian Doppleganger

Italian Hot Chocolate is smooth, rich and just what you need when you are cold (although I couldn't drink much thanks to my sugar issue :-( )

We saw this sign near the Duomo - we actually watched the movie A Room with a View when we were in Florence - which was a lot of fun pointing out places we recognised.

Nikki had a lot of fun in the wool shop (the max price here is 2euro for a ball of super fine Australian Merino wool - imported from Australia, then spun and died in Florence)

We ended up actually having to work one day - proof edits for three chapters we have in books coming out in 2015

In Florence we stayed in the Alba Palace Hotel which was recommended by our friend Cathy Marker - it was lovely.  We'd stay here again in a flash.  The room was small (but that is normal in europe), but the hotel is perfectly located, and the staff are lovely (and it is very quiet).  http://www.hotelalbafirenze.it/en/ 

Paris - best cooking class ever

I took a break from working on my thesis, to take a cooking class at La Cuisine Paris & I can definitely say it was one of the best classes I've ever done (similar in style to those done at Le Tres Bon in Bungendore, but with just two students, it made it very hands on, and meant we could learn more advanced knife skills).  Now that I reflect on it, it seems that I enjoy doing cooking classes on holiday (& sometimes at home when I get the chance) - I've done classes in Australia, Japan, Thailand, Turkey, Greece & France (& I'm hoping to do a class in Italy, the UK and the USA on the rest of this trip).  It is a fun way to connect with local people, meet people from around the world, and a great chance to learn something new. 

This class had a wonderful chef/instructor, Lise (who was very approachable, had a great teaching style, and was a wealth of knowledge), and only one other participant, who was a lovely, absolutely fascinating lady by the name of Susan, who is opening a Pie Bakery in the USA, called the Pie Lab (for those near Seattle, you should check it out when it opens, because Susan is lovely, and has such a passion for her family recipes - I only wish I could be closer so I could sample all the pies she will be selling).  You can see more about the Pie Lab on their facebook page.

Nikki, Susan & Lise

We made quiches, two salads, a pear & walnut tart & the most amazing baked tomato concoction that we put in the quiche and salad, but could easily be used as a pasta sauce on its own, or as a type of bruschetta - the possibilities are endless......

For the tomato bliss concoction,  take ripe cherry tomatoes, and halve them, drizzle them with olive oil, balsamic vinegar (or red wine vinegar), a sprinkling of salt, pepper, rosemary and thyme, then bake them in an oven (at 180) for about 30 mins or until they are caramelised.  If you have a lot of tomatoes, you can make this in large batches and freeze, and use all year round :-)  

Mixed greens, goats cheese, roasted tomatoes and a vinaigrette dressing.  We also had a pear & goats cheese salad, that I didn't get a photo of. 

The quiches are a reasonably basic short crust pastry (with REAL butter, mmmmm, butter), some of the baked tomato bliss concoction, some goats cheese, and some flat leaf parsley, mixed with eggs, cream and milk - but you could make the filling anything you want :-)  

mmmmmm quiche......

we also made a pear and walnut tart, which was delicious. Back at the apartment I made a plain apple version, with cream :-)

This is the entrance to Le Cuisine Paris, at 80 Quai de l'Hôtel de ville, Paris - I'd highly recommend their classes - check them out if you get the opportunity.

(photo from goodfood.com.au)

In 2009 we were pretty unimpressed with the state of the restaurants here in Paris - we ate MUCH better in Chartres and Versailles.  I put down our experience in 2009 to the fact that I was sick (& in my wheelchair), but we have struggled to find decent French food here in Paris during this trip too.  We are booked in to go to a Michelin 2 star restaurant next Thursday, and expect that to be tres bien, but have struggled to find somewhere this week we love.  We did go to a lovely bistro and had a pretty good meal last night, but to be honest, the food at Le Tres Bon at Bungendore, run by Christophe and Josephine leaves everything we've eaten in Paris far behind (& Christophe and Josephine have the ability to make you feel like long lost friends, who are coming home for dinner).  I don't think I fully appreciated the great food we have at Le Tres Bon until I came back to Paris.

One thing we HAVE found in bountiful delicious abundance has been cheese and cured meats - mmmmmmmmm the washed rind cheese on this plater was mouth wateringly good.

and of course you can't come to Paris without eating a nutella crepe :-) - this one had banana in it to make it healthier

Paris!!!!

Here are some photos from our first few days in Paris....

The entrance to the Metro

The Blue door in the background is the door in to our apartment building

This is in our local Boulangerie - I wish I could get this one for my collection - I will keep an eye out for it.

There are many more homeless people on the street than when we were here in 2009 - many of them are families with children, which is very sad.

These homeless people have been donated tents, and have set them up over the vents coming out of the metro, with warm air.

There is still a large TV news presence in the area where the Unity Rally was held

Candles from the night time vigils for the terrorist attacks

During the Unity Rally, people climbed the statue of Marianne, which represents the French Republic, placing flowers around it, as well as putting up posters, and adapting the statues.

Egalitie has had her mouth closed with tape

Libertie has had her sword replaced with a pencil

Je suis charlie is everywhere in Paris - even in the graffiti